A Journey to Egypt

At the Great Pyramids of Giza

Imagine: a beloved relative says to you, “Let’s spend some time together. How about we go on a cruise? My treat. Let’s have an adventure!”

It almost sounds like a pitch for a heartwarming girlfriends sitcom. But this wasn’t just a set-up: a dear aunt made this spectacular offer to me last October. Of course my answer was an enthusiastic “Yes! How wonderful! Thank you!” The next decision involved the destination. We initially decided on a southern U.S. cruise in March, but later she texted, “What would you think about going to Egypt and taking a Nile River cruise?” Her church was offering an opportunity that included an intriguing itinerary of four days in Cairo and four days on a Nile River cruise. My head was buzzing with the idea of seeing ancient sites and floating on the actual Nile River. I agreed right away, dazzled (and maybe just a bit reluctant to believe it was actually a reality).

Preparation

My aunt’s church (Thanksgiving Church in Bellevue, Nebraska) worked with Nawas International Travel, which professionally arranged and handled our group’s entire journey. Nawas compiled an itinerary that covered almost all expenses – airfare, hotel, the Nile cruise, visas, most meals, site entry fees, an expert guide for the span of the trip – excepting only a few select excursions, tips, and a handful of lunches.

We sent copies of passports and emergency contact information to Nawas in the fall, and in January received our flight information and full itinerary. The adventure would begin February 10, taking off from Omaha and landing three stops later in Cairo. Pastor David Witkop from Thanksgiving held a Zoom call with our party of 31 travelers in early January to allow us to meet each other, go over the packing/prep sheet from Nawas, answer questions and share our building anticipation. I also read the very helpful The Nile: A Journey Downriver Through Egypt’s Past and Present by acclaimed Egyptologist Toby Wilkinson.

Plans Take a Twist

My aunt notified me shortly before the trip that, sadly, recurring health issues compelled her to abandon the excursion. She encouraged me to keep my spot and travel with the group and share photos and descriptions with her along the way. After a bit of consideration, I agreed, taking heart in the fact that she and I would enjoy in-person visits before and after the trip.

Packing

For every trip I take that’s more than a weekend, I create an all-purpose list/idea dump/diary in Microsoft Notes and decide on a three-color packing scheme so I can make my clothes go as far as possible.The Note I created for this trip began with a checklist of what I’d need to take, and so I began consulting “what to pack for Egypt” Google results. (Two blog posts that helped: What to Pack for Egypt and What to Pack for Egypt in Winter: 20 Essential Items.) Knowing that Egypt in February would be warm and sunny with cool mornings and nights and keeping in mind our one checked bag/one carry-on limit, I decided on a grey/blue/green color scheme that would lend itself well to layering. I bought a new sunhat and a new matching tote/makeup bag/electronics catchall. Everything else came out of my own closet, with some of the more active/outdoor pieces hauled out of my sons’ closets.

In my stateroom dressed for our Saturday evening dance party

My Egypt packing list:

• Pants: 2 multi-pocketed “camp” pants, wide-leg navy linen pants, narrow-leg navy knit pants, green/blue paisley drawstring pants for dress-up

• Tops: green/blue tie-dye cotton button-up top (doubled as a light jacket), navy/white long-sleeved heavy cotton pullover, navy ¾ sleeve sweater, navy sleeveless sparkle knit, navy activewear short-sleeved shirt, grey shimmer short-sleeve T, grey/white thin knit long-sleeved top

• Jackets: navy/white linen blazer, longer grey snap-front jacket, black/grey fleece pullover

• Shoes: well broken-in grey/navy New Balance sneakers, navy Aerosoles flats, navy jeweled flat sandals, white leather slides.

• Other: Tie-dye ankle-length short-sleeve T-shirt dress, long navy knit skirt, swimsuit, broad-brimmed packable navy sunhat, and a light blue raincoat in its own zip pouch (the only item I never wore).

Women were asked to keep a scarf handy as some religious sites require head coverings. I find multiple uses for scarves on any trip, so I wore a long gray/green/blue patterned scarf that doubled as a sarong and packed a navy bandana that belonged to my mother, a green/blue printed Buff, and a long teal scarf scattered with “jewels.”

Following the adage “Don’t take anything on a trip you can’t bear to lose,” I went very light on jewelry (plain silver band in place of my wedding ring, three pairs of earrings, and a costume ring for dress-up), knowing I’d buy some jewelry as souvenirs. We were advised to pack sunglasses, an extra pair of glasses if we wore them, plenty of sunscreen, sewing and first aid kits, and electrical adapters. Knowing we’d be in a dry climate, I packed small sizes of moisturizing skin and hair products, plus a few cream-based cosmetics. As It turned out, all of our accommodations had in-room hairdryers, the usual selection of hotel toiletries, and sumptuous Egyptian cotton towels. (No washcloths, so I recommend packing a washcloth or two if you use one. We later learned from our guide that Egyptians use loofahs instead of washcloths.)

We were also instructed to keep prescription medication in original containers and bring along extra tissue or toilet paper, as not all public bathrooms in Egypt are so equipped. (That extra tissue came in handy.) I also notified my credit card company I’d be traveling abroad, withdrew enough dollars to cover cash expenses, and purchased an international day plan for my cell phone.

After my bags were packed, leaving enough room for a few treasures from the journey, my husband dropped me off for the short flight to Omaha, where the trip would begin.

Farewell, Omaha!

The morning of February 11, my aunt’s friend dropped me off at Eppley Field, Omaha’s airport, for our first flight of the day to Chicago O’Hare. I was the first at our gate, but others wearing Nawas nametags began arriving shortly thereafter, and we introduced ourselves. Our group had couples, relatives and friends traveling together, plus a couple of singles who signed up to share accommodations and one solo traveler. Most were from Thanksgiving Church, but some had enjoyed other Nawas tours and joined our group because they wanted to go to Egypt. Pastor David arrived and led us in a short prayer before we boarded.

The flight itinerary Nawas booked for us took us from Omaha to O’Hare to Frankfurt to Cairo, reversing this itinerary coming home. With flying times and layovers, the journey each way took almost a whole day.

Hello, Cairo!

We arrived in Cairo late on Tuesday, picking up our visas and boarding a tour bus for the very short drive to Le Passage, a Cairo airport hotel in the suburb of Heliopolis. On the bus, we met our guide for the rest of our trip, Khaled Osman. Originally from Luxor, Osman (as he suggested we refer to him) is an Egyptologist and Biblical scholar. He was key to both the success and value of our trip, sharing with us his extensive knowledge of Egypt from a historical perspective and a current-day street-smart perspective, supplemented with a dry, knowing sense of humor. He hit us with facts right away, noting that Egypt was named Misr (sanctuary) by Jacob. Israelites and Arabs still use this name. Osman also pointed out that Cairo is a city of 26 million people, the seventh largest in the world, and holds 25 percent of Egypt’s population.

At Le Passage, we ran our carry-ons through security, got our room keys and grabbed a late meal in one of the hotel restaurants. Our meals at the hotel and on the cruise ship were buffet style with lots of choices. Osman instructed us to avoid salads and fruits that could not be peeled since tap water is not considered safe for Americans. For my first Egyptian meal, I selected flatbread with hummus, a bowl of mushroom soup and a square of cake, then took a seat at one of the tables staked out by our group. Over the course of the trip, I would enjoy table conversation with almost every one of my fellow travelers. Though now a solo traveler, I felt camaraderie from the get-go.

Top Egypt Experiences

One can find plenty of travelogues to read or view on Egypt and its many wonders. I loved seeing the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the Temple of Philae, and the ancient ruins of Memphis and Saqqara; it was like my 5th grade social studies textbook had come to life. But there’s more to Egypt than historic sites and museums. Here I offer my own favorite experiences.

Sunrise Hot Air Balloon Ride

Photo 1: Inflating one of the hot air balloons / Photo 2: Collection of colorful hot air balloons floating over the Nile River and the Valley of the Kings / Photo 3: The sunrise over the Valley of the Kings

My phone alarm chimed at 4:15 am Valentine’s Day morning: time to get moving! A number of our group had signed up for an optional sunrise hot air balloon ride over the Nile and the Valley of the Kings (which we would visit later in the day). Our cruise boat had docked the night before at Luxor; the staff had breakfast bags ready for us as we walked to a nearby smaller boat that welcomed us with thermal pots of coffee and packaged mini Twinkies. After ferrying quietly across the breadth of the Nile in the darkness, we boarded buses that took us to the balloon grounds, which were already buzzing with activity.

Giant canisters breathed fire into balloons scattered like gargantuan blobs around the grounds. As one balloon was readied and filled with passengers, more stood prepared to follow into the air. I hustled to a basket with some of my group, clambered in with the help of a mini portable staircase and a few helping hands, and took my place among 20-some other passengers and the pilot. The top edge of the sturdy basket came up to our chests, so I felt secure. Then we felt the basket lift, and slowly, with just the slightest whoosh of air, we began our ascent. Higher and higher we silently flew, as if climbing an ethereal staircase.

Soon we could see the green patch bordering the Nile River and the dry brown of the Valley of the Kings adjacent. The sun was a radiant round buckle on an orange belt across the horizon; soon we were sharing the air with dozens of other colorful balloons, looking like baubles hung to decorate the sky. That feeling of weightlessness, the sight of all the colors, the Nile valley green and desert beige, the ozone-ish scent of high altitude … all of those sensations combined to form a memory I’ll hold for the rest of my days.

Nubian Village Home and Spice Market

Photos 1-2: Bright color: buildings and spices at the Nubian village

On the next-to-last day of the cruise, we boarded a boat that took us to the Nubian village on Soheil Island. We waded in the shallow reed-lined banks of the Nile before walking the short distance to the village, where we visited an immaculate and colorful home with a pressed-sand floor and were served mint or hibiscus hot tea in delicate small glasses. Several of us sat for henna tattoos painted by a wizened woman with a quick hand. The residents of the house kept four pet crocodiles, which some (others) of our group held.

We then stepped across the street to a market stall where spices were on sale by the measure. Osman instructed us to let the owner know how much we wanted to spend on each spice and the owner would measure out the correct amount. I was struck by the blue of the indigo, the deep red of the powdered hibiscus, the warm shades of cinnamon, turmeric, and cardamom, plus the rainbow of pepper berries, all arranged in orderly tall cones.

Outside the spice market, you could hear the din of customers bargaining with other shopkeepers, smell the camels passing by as they knelt to drop off passengers, and see knots of young people walking about chatting and calling to each other on a beautiful evening. I left the market with packets of hibiscus, cumin and multi-colored pepper. On the return boat, the Nubian men on the ship sang traditional songs and played hand drums alongside their sons while Osman pointed out the Old Cataract Hotel where Agatha Christie wrote “Death on the Nile.”

Cruising the Nile

Photos 1-4: Cruise views: islands, dwellings and a spectacular sunset

We boarded the M/S Amwaj Livingstone in Luxor late Thursday after a short EgyptAir flight from Cairo. Our three-level boat featured comfortable rooms, each with a view of the river, and a top deck with a small pool and bar that offered tea service each afternoon. Perched upon this deck, we had a full view of the Nile and both banks, motoring at a comfortable clip that allowed us to take in grazing cattle, ancient cave dwellings, and red-tinted bluffs, all with a warm Egyptian winter breeze in the air.

Luxor Temple

Photo 1: Abu Haggag mosque / Photo 2: Hieroglyphics at the Luxor Temple

Our first evening in Luxor, Osman took us to Luxor Temple, a sprawling complex constructed over hundreds of years beginning 1392 BC, and considered to be a significant religious site in ancient Egypt. As the sun set, we wandered through the pylons and colonnades of the temple’s courts, agog at the statues and hieroglyphics. The temple is also home to the wooden windowed Abu Haggag mosque, first built in the 13th century and still in use today. In its entirety, Luxor Temple was a stunning site to visit at sunset.

Egyptian Products and Egyptian Food

Osman ensured that we visited a variety of shops throughout our trip that focused on Egyptian-made items: a cotton-goods specialist, a papyrus dealer, an essential oils house, an alabaster complex, and a rug factory. We could see, touch, and smell, which added to the experience. Thanks to Osman’s street-smarts, we also learned about the “piranhas” at most of the historic sites we visited: aggressive vendors who shouted and walked abreast to “coax” you into buying their wares – scarves, jewelry, T-shirts, knick- knacks. We knew they expected tourists to haggle, but I did not like being shouted at and preferred buying from the boat vendors who kept their wares on a table covered by a colorful cloth and presented in a welcoming “please take a look” manner.

Photo 1: A sample of wares on offer on board a felucca, a traditional Egyptian sailboat / Photo 2: Sampler platter of desserts on the cruise boat

I found Egyptian food similar to other Middle Eastern cuisines, with a focus on legumes, soups, stews, and pita bread often served with small bowls of tahini, hummus, olives, and pickled vegetables (notably beets). We ate shish kebab served on a brasier, chicken served with rice molded into round or heart shapes, freshly grilled fish, and the Egyptian bread pudding known as om ali (sweet and a bit more soupy than its American counterpart).

My least favorite new food: a stew that featured chicken hacked into random portions and left on the bone; while the overall flavor of the stew was pleasant, the texture was off-putting. My favorite new food: a deep green soup called molokhia, which featured pureed greens and interestingly in the cruise ship’s version, okra, which I generally detest.

I also enjoyed Egyptian yogurt at breakfast and the variety of desserts, the latter of which were very similar to Greek sweets. I tried various kinds of dates, which are very popular in Egypt. Coffee and hot tea were ubiquitous, Coke and Fanta products were easily obtainable, and many of us tried the very popular Schweppes Pomegranate soda. Bottled water was plentiful; we relied upon it.

Return and Reflections

My lovely aunt, sporting the scarf I brought back for her

Experiencing Egypt was the thrill of a lifetime, and I have had a blast sharing my photos and notes with my aunt and the rest of my family and friends after our return.

A few final reflections:

• I felt gratitude traveling with new friends. Our Thanksgiving Church travelers looked out for each other. Pastor David helped us realize how fortunate we were to be walking in the steps of history. Osman's breadth of knowledge and friendly delivery made Egypt come alive.

• I wondered where the women were. We saw uniformed women as flight attendants and restaurant hostesses and noticed a few women tourist guides and shop helpers, but on the street, most of the women we saw had children in tow or parcels on their heads.

• Cairo is a frenetic city. We noted tall apartment structures, stray dogs and cats feeding from the street or dumpsters, and people selling drinks or prepared food from the trunks of their cars. We also saw lots of fellow tourists who spoke French, German and Japanese. We were instructed to stay together and wisely did so.

• Egyptian Arabic is the prevalent vernacular. My most-used word was “Shukran (شكراً).” 

Shukran means “Thank you.”

Laurie White Bergman, a retired public relations professional and recent empty-nester, finds her latest act full of places to visit, activities to explore, skills to learn (or rediscover), and friends to make it all fun and worthwhile. She lives in St. Louis County, Missouri. Connect with her on Threads: @laurie_bergman

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